Fast fashion stands on backs of environmental, labor abuse in name of profit
After its introduction in 2008, the ultra-fast fashion brand Shein has been named the most popular clothing brand of 2022, even after facing controversies regarding the company’s carbon emissions and unethical labor practices. The products sold by Shein are priced very low, offer a variety of styles, and are exclusively found online. These factors contribute to why the brand is so popular amongst a younger audience.
Science teacher and Green Alarm advisor Rebecca Kocha knows the reason why Shein attracts so many customers.
“Fast fashion brands remain popular because they heavily market to young people that want the latest trends, and they offer them at a very low price point,” she said. “This allows young consumers to have an item that they want in their hands in a matter of days and only spend a few dollars to get it. I see the appeal, but buying from these brands truly does more harm than good.”
Freshman Tegan Barfknecht found herself compelled by the brand after seeing all the different clothes for cheap prices.
“When I first heard about Shein, I think I felt it was almost too good to be true,” she said. “I’m able to see an outfit online and a week later I’m wearing it, and I’ve only spent ten dollars.”
But if it seems too good to be true, it probably is. Controversies over labor and carbon emissions have consumed the company’s short history. Barfknecht has learned about claims stating Shein has relied on exploiting cheap labor, and those claims became tangible in the product she received.
“The clothes I’ve bought from Shein are usually pretty low quality,” she said. “I think the poor working conditions lead the employees to produce poor quality items.”
Shein is known to outsource labor, meaning they hire other small factories and buy clothing through wholesale. This keeps both labor and materials cheap; however, the line between cheap labor and exploited workers is nearly nonexistent. Workers generally receive only a few cents for each piece of clothing made. Freshman Kora Boese feels that these practices are unacceptable.
“This exploitation of labor is inhumane, cruel, and very capitalistic,” she said. “Working laws should be enforced for all types of labor, including work in fashion.”
Although these issues are well known by the public, consumers can’t get enough of Shein’s trendy, flimsy clothes. According to Forbes Magazine, Shein generated over 30 billion dollars in revenue in 2022 alone. The rate that Shein sells clothing has accelerated what is known as the fashion cycle. Instead of major trends occurring periodically, there are trends popping up every few days-- otherwise known as microtrends. Sophomore Olivia Martin has gotten tired of trying to catch up on all of the new trends.
“Things trend for a few days on TikTok and you think it’s cute, so you get it,” she said. “Then you never wear it because all of a sudden it’s out of style. Eventually, you just have to throw it out.”
Martin’s experience is similar to many. The average U.S. consumer throws out 81.5 pounds worth of clothing every year and most of the fast fashion in the landfill is made up of synthetic materials like polyester and nylon, which are materials that can take 20 to 200 years to decompose. This results in major carbon emissions, which Kocha has expressed concern for.
“Cutting back on carbon emissions helps to reduce the impact of climate change and gives us overall cleaner air,” she said. “Cleaner air leads to cleaner food and water sources, and improves the overall health of people now and in future generations.”
Thrifting has become a very popular alternative to fast fashion brands like Shein, and Boese hopes more people will turn to this option.
“I get a lot of my clothes just from thrift stores,” she said. “They don’t really offer the variety of Shein, but you’ll almost always find something you like. I think that considering how much more sustainable it is, it’s definitely worth it.”
Kocha has found that thrifting can provide shoppers with a more exciting experience compared to online shopping.
“Thrifting truly is so fun and will give you a much more unique and fun wardrobe than buying brand new clothing from the same stores as everyone else,” she said. “Every trip to the thrift store is like a little treasure hunt!”
However, knowing the alternative available hasn’t stopped people from buying goods from Shein. Kocha senses a general level of awareness surrounding the issue, but finds that the problem lies in a lack of personal accountability.
“I think a lot of people assume that their individual actions won’t have an impact,” she said. “They think they are just one person in a world of billions, so it's not worth it for them to make more environmentally conscious decisions.”
This extremely popular opinion is entirely false in Kocha’s eyes, and she thinks that it is important for people to work together.
“If more people would get rid of that mindset, then it wouldn't be just one person making a better choice- it would be lots of people,” she said. “Even if one person decides to act more sustainably, they could inspire countless other people to do the same.”
by Zosia Bowlus-Jasinski
Published on May 22, 2023
Oshkosh West Index volume 119 issue VIII